Thumbs Up: Dr. Evermor’s Forevertron

It’s hard to put into words how The Forevertron made me feel when I first saw it–a cross between admiration and heartbreak–and how those feelings kept unfolding in every corner of the junkyard complex that houses this gargantuan scrap-metal work of art.

The Forevertron and its attendants are also impossible to photograph in a way that convey its wistfulness and wonderfulness, but here are a few paltry attempts of my own (and some better ones here.)

The Forevertron, central chamber

Forevertron, another inadequate view

Forevertron Telescope

Forevertron Love Cannon, which disables enemies with love

Flower in the Forevertron GardenProcession of Aliens?  Defenders? near Forevertron

As one wanders the Forevertron grounds and inspects the intense detail–saw blades layered by the hundreds to make tails for huge rusting birds, gears lovingly sized and welded around the mouth a gigantic piston housing as a floral border–the sense of awe and also sadness grow.   The amount of work required to assemble this structure (and the Victorian fairy tale of time/space travel upon which its aesthetic hangs) out of discarded metal is mind-boggling; the realization of the amount of waste in our world, and the expressed yearning for a better place to live and explore, is also writ large in its monolithic pipes, tubes, and engine parts.

Orchestral Chime Bird, Forevertron

The artist Tom Every is now in a nursing home, and there’s little information about him on the Interwebs or around Spring Green, WI (it is rumored he had a nasty falling-out with Alex Jordan, builder of House on the Rock–Every’s influence on certain portions of the House on the Rock seems clear, but you won’t hear anyone mention him there.)  I suggest taking the time to read the newspaper clippings hung up on swinging boards near the entrance to the Forevertron, since these give the most complete and intimate accounts of Every’s life and the Forevertron.  This PBS piece describes his transformation into “Dr. Evermor”:

“Every’s shift from wrecker to preserver of wreckage led to his “rebirth” as Dr. Evermor. Through this new identity, he would build the Forevertron. Dr. Evermor recalls this important period: “I became Dr. Evermor around 1983 when we started to build the Forevertron. I was a bit upset with the world, not so much the economic conditions as the judicial system and things like that, and I wanted to perpetuate myself back into the heavens on this magnetic lightning force field.”

Love Beam (detail), the Forevertron

Thus: Dr. Evermor’s Forevertron, a time machine with central transport compartment, a Gravitron (which lightens the traveler before traversing space), a telescope for skeptics to witness a traveler’s flight, and an elevated white wrought iron gazebo for the comfort of visiting royal observers.  The Forevertron is surrounded by an array of creatures and gizmos, and nearby one will find an army of hybrid animal/musical instruments and a garden constructed of pliers, springs, and bowling balls.

Victoria and Albert's Observation Gazebo, the Forevertron

Butterflies, the Forevertron

Bowling Ball Shrub, the Forevertron

For a stuck-up city kid, it’s worth pondering how so much creativity packed itself into a tiny town in Wisconsin–Frank Lloyd Wright’s Taliesin (Spring Green, WI was his hometown), Alex Jordan and his House on the Rock–and the Forevertron just hollering distance away in Sumpter, WI.  Three completely different lives and visions, in the middle of dairycow country.  It’s a little humbling, but maybe it’s all that wide-open, fertile space that allows the sort of large dreams that distinguished these artists’ work (or maybe it’s something in the cheese.)

Anyway, if you find yourself wandering Wisconsin’s Dairyland, stop by the Forevertron and have your mind blown.  And leave a donation–this is work from the heart, and the salvage store that hosts the Forevertron doesn’t charge admission (unlike the ungodly sum one pays to get into the broken-down House on the Rock.)  Adventurers, Away!

Toolheads--Warriors or Dancers? or Both?

Slowly We Turned….Heading West via Niagara Falls, Wisconsin, and the Empire Builder

After our sleepless night in Philly we boarded an early train and went up the gorgeous Hudson Valley to Niagara Falls, which I was shocked to find lacked the quaint honeymoon cottages and culture I had been led to expect by recent puff pieces in the national press.  In fact, we were doubly shocked to see how much of the town was derelict–empty storefronts and huge malls, empty.

In contrast, the Canadian side looked like Las Vegas and was thrumming with tourist activity.

Made Of The Mist? The Canadian Side Beckons

We had a good time bumming around in spite of this–the Falls and the park were still beautiful though overcast–we did finally see a rainbow over Niagara in our last hour before leaving.

Touching Water , North Border-View from the deck of The Maid of The Mist (four of the five Great Lakes contribute water to Niagara Falls)

Great Lakes Garden, Niagara State Park

Illuminated Falls At Night

I spoke with a few locals and wrote my first Examiner piece on the town; I ended up discovering a lot more about the region with just a few conversations than I thought I would.  Niagara is experiencing some complex political and economic issues right now, and its survival depends on either a radically improved economy right away or some smart, rapid action on behalf of the state and local authorities, neither of which seems forthcoming.  It’s sad–there’s a lot to enjoy there, potential wasted mostly by political in-fighting.

Sad Empty "Snow Park," Niagara Falls

Full Moon Over The Niagara Rapids, Near The Red Coach Inn

We stayed at the Red Coach Inn, a last-renovated-in-the-1950’s red-velvet funky theme joint–a little dusty, but the staff was friendly and they had an old school menu in the restaurant, e.g. steaks served with a pat of butter on top.  You could hear the Niagara rapids from our room, which was really nice, sound like steady rain.

Modeling "Maid Of The Mist" Blue Ponchos

We did the Maid of the Mist and walked the Falls Park; on our last day, we visited with the Niagara area jeweler that made my wedding band (I’m working on an Examiner piece about him and his work) and he was hilarious and really fun to talk to, but we had to dash to make our next train.

Buffalo Wings At Duff's--Buffalo, NY

We had to change trains and kill about ten hours in Buffalo, which was FREAKIN’ COLD!!  We walked around and a) ate authentic Buffalo wings at purportedly-top-rated-wing-joint Duff’s, which were spicy, greasy, and made us slightly nauseated, and b) found the coolest grocery store on the planet, Wegman’s–better stocked with fresh-prepped, interesting food than Bristol Farms or Whole Paycheck, with FREE WIRELESS IN THEIR CAFE!!!  We ate lunch like, three times during the five hours we were there, stocked up on snacks for the train, internetted, and then went back to the Amtrak station to set off for Milwaukee and points west.

I mean, they had FRESH FLOWERS in the RESTROOM! WEGMAN'S ROCKS!!!

We rented a car and drove from Milwaukee through, YES–WAUKESHA, WISCONSIN!!! HOME OF SPIDERCOW!!! on our way to Baraboo, WI.  We made good time so we drove over to the Dells, which we had been told were “really beautiful.”  They were “really” piled high with Vegas-style waterparks and amusement complexes and moose-and-bear themed restaurants, though we did take a nice hike to the water through the woods only to encounter teens talking on their cell phones and some guy with his boat radio cranked up.  Ah, the sweet sounds of nature.

The Dells

The Dells

At Baraboo we stayed at another funky inn run by a funny retired couple–birdhouses that were little models of the inn and crazy cut-out cows everywhere–but we were skunked by the non-open Circus World, to which we had expressly traveled to Baraboo to see.   Our best guess was that we had obtained their schedule from an old website–there was a newly renovated one when we checked again, and this one said they weren’t going to open until May 22nd.  But we were already there.  Bara-BOOOOOO.

You Know You're In Wisconsin When You See These Next To The Cheese

We went instead and picnicked here at Devil’s Lake–not very circusy but we made do.  There were turtles.

Our Picnic Bench, Devil's Lake, WI

And the Forevertron made the entire Wisconsin junket worth it.  See Samuel’s post and our “Thumbs Up” for more.

The Forevertron

The Forevertron's Love Beam

Other Defenders Of The Forevertron

More in Part II–stayed tuned for House On The Rock!